What House Paint Can Be Used For Acrylic Pour Painting

I collected the most common questions from my YouTube channel in 1 identify. Hopefully this will help answer some questions about acrylic pour painting you were also wondering about, or hadn't idea to ask.

1. Y'all don't use silicone?! So how do y'all get cells? Do you lot apply a torch?

The curt answer is I use Inundation Floetrol and a solid recipe with practiced quality ingredients. This is all you need for cell formation. I don't use silicone and therefore do not need the torch either. I will occasionally use a heat gun on the lowest setting to pop some air bubbling if I shook my pigments upwards simply didn't permit them time to settle before painting. The reason I don't use silicone is that it doesn't mix with the pigment, can get trapped between layers of paint causing pockets, and tin can possibly yellowish your paintings over time. I have a previous weblog post that digs deeper into why I don't utilise silicone.
I also have a couple videos on my website that explain how I set up my paint pigments and preferred brands and tools.

two. Do you seal your paintings with something? Do you coat with varnish or resin when completely dry? How do you get the smooth cease?

I have coated a few of my paintings with resin for a high gloss effect and also for the layered look, adding some illustration between layers, merely y'all will see resin listed in the credit and title of the work. Mostly, however, my paintings dry with a satin semi-gloss end that is as smooth every bit a baby's bottom considering of the GAC 800 pouring medium that I utilise. I have noticed I am one of the few Acrylic Pour artists online who shares the final shots of my fully cured painting. I have them outside and try to get a shot from all angles because I am proud that they don't dry out lumpy, croaky, or with an unpleasant texture. The GAC 800 is an expensive medium, but with it in my recipe, I do not have to coat my paintings after with whatsoever additional varnish or resin.

3. How exercise yous avoid wasting paint that flows down? What are you using for a drip tray?

First, fluid art is a bit wasteful. Yous are going to lose some paint. Likewise, some techniques are more wasteful than others. In my opinion, the flip cup and tree band pour technique is much more wasteful than the swipe technique. I use a washing automobile pan with two yard sticks spanning the edges for my substrates to rest on. I take to give credit to Ann Osbourne for that thought. You can buy them at near hardware stores for about $twenty-$30. For my larger paintings (24"x 36" and bigger) I utilize salvaged bulletin board paper from my school and fold up the edges to create a trough to take hold of the paint. I prop the substrates upwards on the corners with plastic cups.

4. How much paint should I mix upwards for a specific size painting?

I haven't created a foolproof mathematical formula because I am an Creative person! But I did write a web log post regarding how much pigment to mix equally well.

The gist of the thought is this:
Substrate Size Coat the sail Flip Cup/Tree Ring Cascade
8"x10" or 12"x12" viii oz 1 oz (niggling medicine loving cup)
xviii"x24" or 24"x24" 16 oz 4-viii oz
24"x48" or 36"x48" i.5 Qt 16 oz

5. Tin can I utilize tempera paint/oil paint/house paint for this technique?

These paints all have very unlike backdrop. The Acrylic Pour technique is unique to the properties of acrylic paint. Oil, tempera, watercolor, and gouache will not work for this painting technique. Some artists have used latex house paint to initially flood the sheet before calculation the pigments. Though latex business firm paint IS the closest of all these to acrylic paint, information technology is not archival quality and might compromise your painting over time.

six. Where did you purchase your bladder frames? And how are they sized?

I purchase my bladder frames and most of my art supplies from Jerry's Artarama, an online fine art supply store based hither in NC. The float frames are sized based on the canvas size they accommodate so you don't have to overthink it. For example, if you lot were to want a float frame to fit your 16" ten 20" canvas, you only purchase the floater frame for ¾" sail, 16" x 20" or one.5"canvas 16"x 20", taking into account the depth as well.

7. Have you washed this aforementioned color pour with resin?

No. I have a few paintings with articulate resin layers and resin coating on top, but I have non experimented with the colored resins. I probably will stick to the acrylic, though I might revisit layering the acrylic with clear resin.

8. And regarding a couple specific paintings like this i below where I DID use resin layers:How did you get the floating/layered effect? Are you drawing on wet or dry resin? What did you utilize to draw with?

Speaking specifically to the painting above, these were the steps and layers.
i. White pigment allowed to dry completely
two. Resin allowed to dry completely
3. Acrylic cascade using blueish and white allowed to dry completely
4. Resin immune to dry completely
5. Illustration using gel pen and enamel pigment pen
6. Resin allowed to dry out completely
Every bit y'all can see, this was a time-consuming process that took weeks to complete, simply the result was worth information technology. I need to practise more than of these! I loved the results so much!

9. What brand of paint do you lot use and why?

Gold Creative person Colors are in my stance the all-time brand out there for quality, customer service, and available resources for their artists. Just check out their website and get to the resources tab. Y'all'll be sold. They are the ONLY company that provides their specific gravity chart for all their pigments, so you tin use density to assistance in cell formation rather than adding silicone, which tin can compromise your painting. I employ their GAC 800 pouring medium exclusively. As I explained above in a previous question, it saves me the trouble of coating or varnishing later to touch up the finish AND it prevents crazing!

10. Do you have to alluvion the sail showtime and is there a cheaper culling to flood the canvas?

Aye, y'all have to flood the canvass or you lot go unsightly snags, ripples, wrinkles etc. Flooding the canvas is when an artist coats the whole sheet with wet pigment before the cascade, commonly white. Acrylic pouring works best equally a wet into moisture technique. This adds to the costly nature and wastefulness of this technique, but information technology is what it is. Some artists try to first the toll with cheaper pigment, even using arts and crafts paints and latex house paint. This volition only diminish the final quality of the piece of work, still. Latex firm paint is non archival and tin crack over time.
Recollect about how frequently yous repaint, or SHOULD repaint the walls of your house; ten years max. Don't y'all desire your paintings to last longer than that? We are all the same admiring the Mona Lisa that was painted over 500 years agone (which admittedly has gone through a bit of restoration but mostly for cleaning, equally the varnish yellows over time).

I hope y'all found these answers to my about usually asked questions helpful. Allow me know in the comments if y'all take any unique questions you'd similar me to accost or to farther explain any of the answers from this mail. Every bit ever thank you for reading!!

Don't forget I accept a holiday sale going on right now, until the finish of the year; 50% off all my paintings. Visit my online store!

Source: https://choelscherart.com/the-top-ten-most-frequently-asked-questions-about-acrylic-pouring/

Posted by: reesetraturness.blogspot.com

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